Khabarovsk: For The Richer Tourist...

Here we are on the other side of the first leg of our Trans-Siberian trip. Was it what we expected? Well, I fell asleep pretty quickly- all that walking up he hilly streets of Vladi was exhausting! Our kupe- 2nd class compartment with 4 beds- was very comfortable and clean. Instead of the usual and infamous 'providinista' (female carriage attendant), we had a 'provodinik', looking very dapper in a light grey suit. Of course, a long distance train ride would not be complete without the obligatory snorer... an slowly experiencing snorers from around the world!

I'm going to keep in short and sweet bot Khabarovsk, rather like our stay here. Firstly, and rather bizarrely, this city is very EXPENSIVE. We wandered around Khabarovsk for 2 hours yesterday morning, trying to find a hotel for under 2000 rubles- only to find they were no longer existent or much more expensive than we were expecting. We shouldn't have been surprised; our Lonely Planet is three years old... but still, who knew so much could change in 3 years?

Anyway, enough grumbling...we are not backpacking in a cheap country, after all. We soon found a hotel, Hotel Intourist, which we soon discovered was the venue of either a school prom night, the after-party of a school prom, or the wedding reception of a very young person getting married. Lots of girls in tight dresses hugging each other tightly...it seems the model-like beauties are not restricted to Vladivostok!

So, what else did we discover about this pricey city? Well, it's as clean and green as Vladivostok, with the same immaculate light grey pavements, wide open roads and tree filled boulevards. But though it also had the same cloudless skies as Vladi, it didn't have the benefit of a cool sea breeze. I casually said to Patrick that it must be around 25 degrees Celsius, only for him to point out an electronic temperature gauge across the road that read 37 degrees!! It had felt hot outside, especially walking around with out backpacks for 2 hours, but not THAT hot!! There were people-a-plenty swimming in the slightly murky river, and sunbathing in the adjacent sandy strip- several men sporting speedos, several women wearing nothing but bikini bottoms and nipple protectors...

Few more things to mention before I sign off and pack for the next train trip. Khabarovsk has some of the prettiest churches I've seen in a while...one of them, which I can see from my window, is brilliant white with electric blue spires. It's even more striking at night, when the top of the church lights up. We also spotted a golden-spired church in the distance from the main strip. There's something magical about seeing these magnificent buildings from afar, creating more of an impact than when viewed up close, as icons of a past opulent era. I call it the 'Taj Mahal' effect... Finally, I have to mention the great restaurant we went to last night- well, great food anyway. Parisian style cafes outside, which no-one wanted to sit in but us...too hot fr the people of Khabarovsk. My borsch and salad were delicious, as was Patrick's lamb...even if it came an hour and a half late. Luckily it was a beautiful night, with the sun only setting at 10pm, so it was no chore to sit there a little longer than planned. So, Khabarovsk has been another pleasant surprise...we are impressed with eastern Russian cities so far. Both Vladivostok and Khabarovsk seem to have one eye on today, switched on to the current trends and attitudes, and one eye on tomorrow, seeming to also anticipate future trends with their achingly cool swagger and innovative dress sense. I never thought I'd say this so early on in the trip, but these are both cities that I would like to return to. Where's our next stop? Chita, 40 hours away. We're in a kupe again, both on top bunks this time...so here's hoping that we get fun, easy- going compartment mates! Until Chita... P.S Sorry about the lack of photos...it's been very difficult to upload them. I'll keep trying, though!

First Trans-Siberian train, from Vladivostok to Khabarovsk

Ten Things You Should Know About Vladivostok...

1. There are a heck of a lot of cars. Of course, that's true of any city- but there's something a little stranger about these cars. Russia is a left-hand drive country, but there are probably just as many- if not more- right-hand cars on the road. Where have they all come from?

2. Vladivostok is a pretty sprawling city, stretching around the harbors. Patrick and I found out just how sprawling it is pretty quickly. All in all, Patrick's journey from the airport took 5 hours; mine took a little under four. This is also related to the next observation which is....

3. There are next to NO taxis in Vlad city centre. Bit of a shock after Suva's bounteous taxi offering! I took the bus to Vladivostok's beautifully ornate train station, expecting to catch a taxi from there. The first two I find look at the address, written in Russian, and refuse to take me. I could only make out one word- 'telephoniska' (or something like that) and one hand gesture, which I'm guessing meant far away. To cut a long story short, eventually I found one, who charged me just a little over what he should. Patrick, on the other hand, didn't even catch a taxi in the end. After he was told by the lady bus conductor to get off at the wrong stop, he he no idea where he was, and of course couldn't find a taxi anywhere. Eventually, he sought the help of some young Russians who spoke a smattering of English; they pointed to a bus across the street, and told him to get on it- which he did. An hour and a half later, by what could only have been divine intervention, Patrick saw the big red sign to our hotel. Upside to the whole charade: the whole 5 hour journey, from the airport to the hotel, only cost 95 rubles- USD$3. My journey was a little pricier- but hey, it was a miracle I even managed to find my way there at all, with my directional skills!

4. Vladivostok holds a mish-mash of lovely ornate buildings- like the train station- and grey, breeze block affairs- like our hotel. Don't get me wrong, this hotel has been great. Even though the building isn't the most attractive, and it's tricky to find, and nobody really speaks English...this is all rendered insignificant by the borsch. For those like me who had never tried borsch before, it is a delicious beetroot soup with potatoes, delicious veggies, and sometimes indistinguishable, but tasty meat. Our hotel has definitely set the standard high; we tried borsch in another restaurant last night, and it just wasn't the same. Shout out for our hotel by the way- Hotel Variant. If you ever choose to embark on a Trans-Siberian trip, I really recommend staying with these guys. I haven't even mentioned their great selection of beers (Baltika Classic no. 3 is our favorite so far), or their exquisite lapsha (chicken noodles in a tomato and dill sauce). Ooh, that brings me onto the next short, but very significant point...

5. Russians seem to be obsessed with dill. Seriously, it is in EVERYTHING- borsch, mashed potato, lapsha, salads. I have to say, dill was never really on my radar before- coriander was always my herb of choice- but I'm slowly being converted.

6. Gutov is an awesome restaurant in Vladivostok's city centre. Lovely rustic wooden tables outside, great variety of beer served in tankard-style glasses, and one of the best salads Patrick and I have ever tried- duck sausage and lettuce in a pomegranate wine sauce. Oh, and dill, of course.

7. On a completely separate note, another thing that Vladivostok has in copious amounts? Pretty ladies. Yes, Patrick is in heaven here...and I think these ladies could convert me. Honestly, they could all be supermodels, with their silky long tresses and fitted designer dresses. How do they get their fringes so perfect?! This is not a place to dress like a backpacker!!

8. Vladivostok has offered us perfect weather- beautifully sunny, but with that irresistible cool crispness. Oh, how we've missed the long summer days, with the sun setting at 10pm...

9. There is a lovely seaside promenade on the harbour, complete with dodgy looking fairground rides and Russian style barbecues. Also a few bizarre attractions- a man offering to take your picture with his pet monkey (this is not, I repeat NOT a euphemism!), and a bench press competition, where tough Russian men competed over how long they could hold on. Strange thing, entertainment...

10. Vladivostok is very much a developing city. Everywhere you turn, there is construction happening. This city has already been a very pleasant surprise, with it's cleanliness, character and modernity, but I can see it becoming an even more exciting city in the next 2 to 3 years.

All in all, Vladivostok has been a fantastic place to kick off our Trans-SIberian trip, with its relaxed atmosphere and lovely cuisine. We somehow managed to buy a train ticket at the train station yesterday, with only a few dodgy Russian phrases between us, so our next stop, 12 hours away, is...Khabarovsk! See you there, everybody!....

Next Stop, Vladivostok...

In what has quickly become one of my travelling traditions, I'm writing a short and sweet blog post from my favourite airport- Incheon, South Korea. In one hour, I'll be up in the air heading towards Vladivostok, one of the most easterly points of Russia.

So, am I ready for our month-long Trans-Siberian adventure? The answer is a resounding YES, though along with the butterflies, there are of course a few obligatory nerves rattling around my stomach. Crazily enough, one of my main worries- and subjects of my curiosity- is the undecipherable Russian language with its Cryllic characters. I remember our struggles in China with our lack of understanding for Chinese characters....I hope we can somehow make ourselves understood in Russia. Then again, I think food- and drink- will unite us with the Russian people. Food is an internationally understood language, and can be a way to show our appreciation for the Russian culture, and the people themselves, in a way that a few badly-learned Cryllic words never could.

I've flicked through the Lonely Planet. I'm halfway through Doestroevsky's 'The Idiot'. Yet somehow, I still have no true idea of what to expect from Russia. All I know is that there will be a lot of vodka, lots of carbs, a lot of distance covered, and a lot of RUsiian spoken. And you know what- for once I'm fighting my instinctive need to plan, and am going to GO WITH THE FLOW. Who knows what Russia has planned for the two of us?

Watch this space....see you in Russia, everybody!

Ni Sa Moce I.S.S, Ni Sa Moce Fiji...

I'll upload more photos when we have better internet...our final Daikoku, my Afternoon Tea farewell gathering, the...ahem...interesting(!) photos from the Staff Function last Friday. For now I want to share the very moving, acapella-sung Fijian farewell song.

I defy anybody not to start tearing up upon hearing this- especially when it's your work colleagues singing it for you. Check it out on YouTube if you can- just type in 'Isa Lei'.

The gorgeous woven basket filled with leaving presents (including noodles, necklaces, and sulus!).  Around my neck is a salusalu garland, made with beautiful-smelling and brightly-coloured flowers. Lovely leaving gifts!

The card given to me by my students. Very sweet!

ISA LEI
(Guy/P/W)



Isa Isa vulagi lassa dina
Nomu lako au na rarawa kina
Cava beka ko a mai cakava,
Nomu lako au na sega ni lasa.

Isa Lei, na noqu rarawa,
Ni ko sana vodo e na mataka
Bau nanuma, na nodatou lasa,
Mai International nanuma tiko ga.

Vanua rogo na nomuni vanua,
Kena ca ni levu tu na ua,
Lomaqu voli me'u bau butuka
Tovolea ke balavu na bula.

Isa Lei, na noqu rarawa,
Ni ko sana vodo e na mataka
Bau nanuma, na nodatou lasa,
Mai International nanuma tiko ga.

Domoni dina na nomu yanuyanu,
Kena kau wale na salusalu,
Mocelolo, bua, na kukuwalu,
Lagakali, maba na rosi damu.

Isa Lei, na noqu rarawa,
Ni ko sana vodo e na mataka
Bau nanuma, na nodatou lasa,
Mai International nanuma tiko ga.


*****


ENGLISH TRANSLATION


Isa, Isa you are my only treasure;
Must you leave me, so lonely and foresaken?
As the roses will miss the sun at dawning,
Every moment my heart for you is yearning.

Isa Lei, the purple shadow falling,
Sad the morrow will dawn upon my sorrow;
O, forget not, when you're far away,
Precious moments beside dear International.

Isa, Isa, my heart was filled with pleasure,
From the moment I heard your tender greeting;
'Mid the sunshine, we spent the hours together,
Now so swiftly those happy hours are fleeting.

Isa Lei, the purple shadow falling,
Sad the morrow will dawn upon my sorrow;
O, forget not, when you're far away,
Precious moments beside dear International.

O'er the ocean your island home is calling,
Happy country where roses bloom in splendour;
O, if I could but journey there beside you,
Then forever my heart would sing in rapture.

Isa Lei, the purple shadow falling,
Sad the morrow will dawn upon my sorrow;
O, forget not, when you're far away,
Precious moments beside dear International.

The exit out of ISS Secondary.

Inga's Hen Party...

After the excitement (and messiness) of the International School Suva staff function on Friday night- poolside at the Fiji Club, inevitably followed by O'Reilly's- we had even more messiness to come on Saturday for a hen party held for Inga, one of my Learning Support teacher buddies. Thanks so much Kristin for the incredible appetisers and drinks- special mention for the dates wrapped in bacon, and pomegranate mamosas! I won't forget that dangling orange game in a hurry either- think I need to work on my thrust for the next round though...

Anyway, here are the pics from Kristin (another fellow Learning Support teacher)'s beautiful place, and from Suva's other big pub-club, Traps...not such a beautiful place, but bloody good fun! Suffice to say, Sunday was not so fun...can't handle two nights in a row anymore. I'm definitely way past my student days of four-nights-a-week revelry...

The Sun Did Not Shine...

...it was too wet to play,
So I gave a small speech
During Young Writer's Day!
(This is an event
That's held at the school,
Where we're trying to show
How writing is cool)
I stood up there in front
I stood there, just me,
And I said 'I love writing-
It's as fun as can be!'
Though some of the kids
Got fidgety bums,
There were some who weren't
Just twiddling thumbs,
So I read them my poem
About keeping dreams near,
'The Dream Snatcher'- that guy
Who, at night, blows in FEAR!
I think they enjoyed it,
But all that I hope,
That even if most
Thought I was a dope,
That ONE child would hear
What I tried to say,
And would look at writing
A new, different way.
By the way, can you tell
From this very strange rhyme,
How, while I spoke,
I was dressed at the time?
To see for yourself
See the picture below-
(Though the famous hat
Is poorly made, I know!)

A Trip To Nananu-i-ra, Thanks To Queenie...

I'm sad that I missed out on all the Golden Jubilee celebrations back home- but I'm happy we at least got to celebrate (and have a day off for) the Queen's Birthday.

So far in Fiji, we've only headed one direction along the coast, and that's west, towards Nadi. We decided it was about time to be different, and see what the north had to offer. Why Nananu-i-ra? Because of the wind; as you'll see in the photos below, Patrick fancied trying a bit of windsurfing to add to his water-sports CV! Suffice to say, I'm no expert on windsurfing, but there were a few at Safari Lodge who thought Patrick was pretty good for a beginner. As well as the wind, up North is also a damn sight less rainy than Suva- but then I think London and Vancouver combined are less rainy than Suva...

Anyway, it was a sunny, peaceful weekend at Safari Lodge. Dreams of diving were dashed when there were no oxygen tanks available. But no matter- we had our friends Ghazal and Ange from USP with us for some cool sunset and snorkelling times. Not to mention a great massage by Rosie, one of the great, unappreciated staff. One of the only places in Fiji where you can cook for yourself...it made me hark back to Aussie backpacker days. Spaghetti with tinned tomatoes, noodles...not so appetising when you can smell a delicious and elaborate BBQ from the Japanese crew next door, but ah well!

Nananu-i-ra, close to the northern town of Rakiraki, is an intriguing island; according to the office manager at International School, the island once belonged to three European sisters, before being sold off to other parties. The accomodation on on one of the beaches definitely seems more quaint than the style of the usual Fijian bure. Still lovely, just very different to what we'd seen before. TIn fact, there seem to be no local villages there- very odd! I found it interesting to go to a place on the brink of more development; it's always nice to see a place in its (mostly) unspoilt glory. As much as I loved it, it made me think how beautiful and peaceful Natadola beach must have been before the Intercontinental...

Here are some photos shamelessly stolen, once again, from my friend Ghazal. Got to get more organised with charging my camera battery! By the way, before I forget, I want to shout out to the two interesting nomads that we met at Safari Lodge- a Spanish girl called Sylvia whose UN work has taken her to the Phillipines and East Timor among other places, and an older American hippy guy called Dean who loved diving with sharks, paragliding in Nepal, and travelling every 6 months. Anybody who has been to Nepal 27 times should be admired, I reckon.

So! Enjoy the pics of our final weekend getaway in Fiji...

On the mainland dock, ready to head to the island...

That's Warren, the confident, slightly cocky Safari Lodge owner, behind us.

A colourful bug we randomly found on a leaf!

Token cheesy pic!

Can't quite reach...

L-R- Me, Ange and Ghazal.

Enjoying the sunset at the appropriately-named Sunset Point.