On the ferry over from Ko Tao, a bald, sun-damaged American guy- at least in his sixties and sporting a holey, loose vest- enthusiastically told us about a beautiful beach on the eastern side of the island called Than Sadet; in particular, a place called Plaa’s. He told of how one time during monsoon season, a Plaa’s employee had helped this guy and a few companions (including a child) under caves and up a cliff-face just to get to the restaurant, even with dangerously high water levels. Than Sadet sounded tranquil and lovely, but we’d already been planning to get to the north of Ko Pha-ngan, to Chaloklaam. However, after two days getting burnt at the latter’s beautiful beach and feeling fed-up with the parties going on until 6am in next-door’s bungalow, we took the random guy’s advice and headed east. After a bumpy ride along palm-lined mud-paths, we arrived at Than Sadet, asking the driver how to get to Plaa’s. ‘Across that large rock, under the cave and up the cliff’s stairs’, he said. Turns out that American had not exaggerated! We pigeon-stepped over the large, moss-covered rock, squeezed under the little cave (nearly getting stuck with our big backpacks on!), and traipsed up the cliff’s built-in steps, to be greeted by the very smiley Plaa. Her daughter took us on the 5 minute walk to our bungalow…oh, my, god. Huge balcony with hammock. Sliding glass doors. Ocean view (a little obstructed with trees, but still amazing). BATHTUB- haven’t seen one for 5 months! All for 400B! Next time a random guy comes up and recommends an even more random place to you, my advice? Take his advice!
Anyway…this was all very exciting, but you want to hear about the Full Moon Party, right? We booked a return taxi to Haad Rin (where Full Moon fun happens), leaving at 10.30p.m, coming back at 7.30a.m. This was going to be a long-night! Pre-drinking consisted of homemade Samsom Whisky/Red Bull buckets, listening to Oasis- wild start. After a drink-induced mini domestic about flip-flops versus closed-toed shoes (‘These are not shoes…they’re sandals!’…’Anything that’s footwear can be called shoes!’ etc…), we walked to Mae Pen Rai bungalows on the beach to have a spot of dinner, then catch the taxi. Another bucket, some delicious laksa (noodles in a spicy coconut sauce), piling into the taxi…and away we went! This was probably the drunkest part of the night, with Patrick holding on for dear life at the edge of the taxi…that bumpy ride felt a little bumpier after a few buckets! Before we knew it, we’d been dropped off in Haad Rin, and left to find our way. A huge banner welcomed us to Haad Rin, and reminded us that it was 100B entry. Scandalous, you may think- but by the end of the night, it soon became clear why they need donations…
We paid up, and were soon on a road that I will christen ‘Bucket Alley’. Dozens of bucket stalls lined the street, all poets apparently…I have never seen the ‘f’ word so many times in such a short time. Each plastic pail contained a bottle of spirit, a redbull and a coke, that would be transformed into a drink of madness upon saying the magic words ‘One bucket, please’. So, bucket swinging from my elbow, we followed Bucket Alley onto the beach, where we were greeted with the sight of hundreds of neon-painted half-naked people dancing their booties off on a huge stage, thousands more milling on the beach. Neon lights throbbed every which way; the words ‘Full Moon Party: Haad Rin: Ko Pha-gnan’ were aflame before our very eyes. As the Black Eyed Peas would say, tonight was going to be a good night…
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