So, it was the usual story for early arrivals in cities. Stumble out of the station into the rickshaw of the least pushy driver, hoping that you will be taken to where you actually wanted to go, and not where the driver will get the most commission. The guy we chose was actually very good- he took us to our LP-recommended place, which ended up being too expensive and full. Although he then lead us to another hotel, it was actually one of the nicest we've seen- and only for 300 rupees! Bargain- we were sold! The rooftop view of the Lake Palace floating on Lake Pichola- the palace apparently used in the film 'Octopussy'- was the icing on the cake.
Our days have been busy with chock-a-block sightseeing, but it's been the nights that have proved the true highlights. On the first night, upon hearing that there was a Hindu festival happening over the next few days where Hindus just party all night, we ventured out into the streets to see this for ourselves. And what a sight! Hundreds of Hindus in an inner and outer circle that stretched the length of the road, facing each other and beating sticks with their partner, before moving on to the next person. Sounds confusing- and believe me, it was! Once we had watched this spectacle for a while, we headed back to the hotel, only to find a mini-version of this dance happening down an alleyway. When we went to investigate, a little Indian boy came up to me with sticks and asked if I wanted a go. Well, I couldn't pass up an opportunity like that, so I took them, practiced with him for a while, then enthusiastically joined the circle. I don't think the ladies were too enthusiastic about my presence- my co-ordination isn't fantastic- but they still patiently smiled and humoured me. It was much harder than it looks! I did one round then retreated shyly, aware that I'd made a pillock of myself but with the biggest grin on my face.
The next night was to be even better. We've been wanting to take an Indian cooking class for a while, and with our time in India slowly coming to a close, we decided to seize the day and do one here. So we headed down at 5.30pm to the cosy home of Shashi, a spirited Indian lady who pressed a felt bindi to my forehead and tied a bracelet around my wrist as soon as I sat down. We then got to hear her amazing entrepreneurial story. Her husband died when he was 32, leaving her in a very vulnerable position financially- she was unable to remarry, and at that time there were almost no working rights for widows. So she became a washerwoman, but had to keep it secret because her caste, Brahman, disapproved of such work. Her son then came up with the idea of her teaching Indian-style cooking to travellers. She was nervous at first with her limited English, but travellers kept coming to her classes and helping her in exchange for Hindi lessons. Eventually, Lonely Planet featured her cooking school, and the rest, as they say, is history. Now she doesn't have a moment to herself- she is a primary school teacher by day, and cooking teacher by night. Amazing story, amazing stamina, amazing lady.
She started by teaching us the art of 'masala chai', which was much simpler than I'd imagined. We then went on to learn pakora (fried dumplings usually eaten at breakfast), coriander and mango chutneys, aloo gobi (potato and cauliflower curry), and vegetable palau ("more veg, less rice, long slice!"). She was strict at times- 'You! Stir!'- but she was a great teacher.
It was then time to get physical! We got to make chappatti and paranthas (the fried version) ourselves, from rolling the dough (as ever, this was not my strong point!) to flipping it on the hot pan. We also made naan, although in Indian culture this is apparently more a bread for 'special occasions' such as weddings- same technique as chapatti but with white flour instead of wheat flour.
So, five hours after we had started, we had finally completed our feast! The full menu- naan stuffed with garlic cheese and fried tomatoes for starter (incredible), aloo gobi with vegetable palau, chappati and paranthas for main, and coconut parantha for dessert. What a meal! The size made it a struggle to finish, but the food itself, especially that starter and dessert, was some of the best we've had in India. And we'd helped to make it (sort of!)- who would've thought it?
This cooking class would have been worth every rupee in itself, but then Shansi brings out our little gifts- tiny elephants for the boys, and key-rings for the girls. After teaching us a few useful Hindi phrases (which I've embarrassingly forgotten), we were on our way, bursting at the seams with Indian culinary knowledge and delicious food!
Before I move on to our unforgettable Jaisalmer camel safari, one last moment to recall in Udaipur. On the way to catching the Jaisalmer bus, one guy shouted 'Dress! 2000 rupees!'. I kept walking away; he shouts almost immediately '1000 rupees'. Feeling inexplicably jubilant, I laughed and shouted back '50 at the most!' Then with the best comic timing ever, a random vendor next to us pops up and says '40 better!' Brilliant example that behind the hassle and pressure, India has a joyful, playful side. Now, onto Jaisalmer and the Great Thar Desert!...
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