Planes, Trains and Scooters...

At the moment I'm sitting in an internet cafe in Kolkata, all sorts of crazy honks in the background. We finally said goodbye to South India today, flying from Bangalore to begin our North India trip. BUT I'll have to fill you in on what's happened in between!
   
    After weeks of trying to work out how to reserve a bloody ticket, we FINALLY managed to get on the train from Ernakulam to Bangalore. The organised station and comfy seats were both pleasant surprises, but the real highlight was the men who kept bringing the cheap snacks through the carriages- I think I ended up buying every one going!

   So, we arrived at about 4am in Bangalore. I won't bang on about Bangalore (haha- not)- a city is a city is a city after all. But I will say that the IT capital of Asia (apparently!) is one of the best cities we've been to- corporate organised bustle by day and neon cool by night.
   OK, so onto one of my favourite places we've been so far...HAMPI! I should probably explain what the initial attraction was. Hampi has a very unusual landscape- huge volcanic formed boulders next to banana plantations and the peaceful 'ghats' on the river. Combine this with ancient 15th century ruins scattered around this environment, and you've got a pretty interesting place! We took our favourite (ahem) mode of transport, the overnight bus, and this time, it was a nice smooth ride, no potholes at all. Yeah RIGHT! In our dreams! Our early arrival into Hampi was made all the more intense by the fact we were the only ones- rickshaw drivers were clambering onto the bus desperately shouting '10 rupees! I'll take you anywhere!' This wasn't the peaceful, spiritual place I'd been told so much about!
   But after we got a room and took a wander into the village, we realised why this place was so special. We walked through the streets, stepping around goats and cows, into the main bazaar, only to be suddenly confronted by the majestic Virupaksha Temple, which stood proud at the end of the road. As we moved closer to take a look at the beautiful architecture, we saw some brown furry things running around the statues. Thinking they were rats at first, I jumped back, but I soon realised that they were monkeys, some with babies clinging onto them!

   Entranced by this surreal sight, we decided to explore some more, and headed into the temple, where a little man told us we could be blessed by Lakshmi, the temple elephant! Well, I couldn't pass up an opportunity like that, so we walked on in to meet the adorable Lakshmi. The guide then told me her secret talent- give her a 10 rupee note, she'll give it to her attendant then bless you on the head with her trunk! So I gave it a go- probably should've taken my sunglasses off first though!!

   The little man then offered to be our personal guide, and take us to 'secret' places in the temple. We were unsure at first, wanting the freedom to walk around ourselves. But it was so worth it- if not for the pitch black tower with moss-covered stairs and bats, then for the huge terrace it led to, monkeys galloping (!) around the tall walls whilst we took in the unbelievable views of Hampi's ruins and bouldering landscape.

   The next day, we decided to go and explore these ruins that we saw from afar- and we decided to do it in style! Despite a very persistant auto-rickshaw driver, we chose to rent a scooter- much more of an adventure that way! And it lived up to the dream- despite the slightly shaky start, soon Pat and I were flying down Hampi Bazaar...until we were told that scooters weren't allowed down the path we'd chosen. Damn! The walk to Vittalla Temple was lined with ancient ruins and the odd child guilt-tripping us into postcards...so lovely that we walked straight past the temple a few times before accepting 2km later 'oh, it might be that building we passed earilier that we took pictures of'.

   The other ruins were great- the Elephant Stables with their Indo-Islamic architecture and immaculately clipped gardens particularly so- but by then we'd fallen hard for the pathetic thrill of driving our scooter. It was just such a great feeling with the wind in your face, ancient ruins one side of you, banana plantations the other, palm trees in between, and hardly anyone else on the dusty paths, both of us humming 'Born to be Wild'...ermmm...

   Anyway! The sun was setting in its gorgeous baby-fushia pink way, with cheeky streaks of purple. It was time to say goodbye to our scooter, and an hour later to Hampi. Oir visit to this small, but thriving village has only whetted my appetite for all the spiritual sights we're going to explore up North!
   Well, that's all for now- we're spending a few days here in Kolkata, then onto Bodgaya and the Buddhist monasteries! Should be quite an experience! Catch up with you soon xxxx