I've been meaning to go to Dublin for the past, I don't know, 10 years...but somehow have always headed somewhere else instead. Well, no more, I told myself at the end of last year...and what better time to go, than combining a certain somebody's birthday, and St. Paddy's Day?
It was certainly an enlightening week. Here are just a few of the things I learned in those four days.
- Dublin is quite a small city. Always a pleasant shock for a Londoner when you can walk everywhere downtown. Moving on from one obvious fact to the next...
- Temple Bar wasn't just a really, really popular bar...but an actual STREET. Who knew? Everyone but us, apparently, as we wandered down Temple Bar, looking for Temple Bar, and ending up in a sticky-floored crazy place filled with over-excited Americans. And as for St. Paddy's Day...absolutely mental. Floppy green hats everywhere (including on my head), people singing and dancing on the street...your average St. Paddy's Day, really, but on an amplified scale.
- Bruxelle's on Harry Street does literally the best breakfast in Dublin. We only went in there for a pastry or something- and got SO much more. It was simple- over-easy egg, sausage, bacon, toast. Coffees the first time we went, and- because we were hardened Dubliners by then- Guinnesses the next. I don't know what made is so special, but I'd highly recommend it. It would have made a great hangover cure after Patrick's birthday, had we not opted for room service.
- Palace Bar is full of very interesting characters. This was probably one of our favourite pubs- great natural lighting from the skylight, pictures on the wall denoting its history, and- to top it all off- its own whiskey. We revisited on St Paddy's Day, and met a very interesting Englishman- a self confessed 'idiot' who showed us his checklist of 30 must-visit Dublin pubs. He claimed he was halfway through the list; I reckon he was a little further on, considering he wandered into the lady's toilets, and promised us a dance later in the evening. Shame we didn't stay to see that dance!
- There are quite a few Irish beers beyond Guinness, as we discovered at the Irish Craft Beer and Cider Festival. Some of the more eye-catching brand included the charmingly named Galway Hooker (a reference to fishing, I'm sure), Metalman (for the harder man), Trouble Brewing (well, at least they're honest) and White Gypsy.
- All the signs in Dublin are written in Irish and English. Just a small thing, but something I wasn't really expecting, for some reason. Something everyone else probably already knew, just like the 'Temple-bar-is-a-street-not-just-a-bar' fact.
- Ireland are quite good at rugby. Heading to O Neills' pub to watch the Ireland vs. Italy rugby match- pretty important game, apparently. As Irishmen and women hollered at the screen, I tucked into a delicious shepherds' pie topped with a pig-in-blanket...awesome. At the beginning, I wanted Ireland to win so there would be a good atmosphere- then changed my mind halfway when I realised I was English, and that my home country would win if Ireland lost. I only cheered a little bit when Italy got close to winning- I did value my life, after all. Saying all that, I'm glad Ireland won in the end- it was far more pleasant having happy, singing Irishmen around us.
- There's good seafood to be had in Dublin. The seafood tower we had at SMS, a random fish restaurant that serves fish-and-chips out the back, but quite fancy fish dishes (wine only. darling) at the front. I took the waiter's recommendation of the roasted beets, and was very glad I did...mmm mmm MMM!
- The Guinness factory...is filled with every tourist in Dublin. Here comes the obligatory mention of Dublin's number 1 attraction, as voted on Trip Advisor. Don't get me wrong, it was great- the steak and Guinness stew there was particularly good- but it was a little bit of a conveyor-belt, shuffling along and catching glimpses of information before feeling guilt-tripped into moving on. We did choose to go the day before St. Paddy's Day, so it was our own fault, I suppose. Tip for those planning to go- do NOT join the big queue on the left. Buy your tickets online, and you can pretty much skip all the crowds...it's a pretty neat trick! Patrick got quite a fetching jersey to take away, as well.
- Jameson and Ginger is a great alternative when you've had enough Guinness...as discovered at Temple Bar's 'The Auld Dubliner'. Staying out later than we had in a long time (we're getting older now), singing along to the live music at the Auld Dubliner. I seem to remember getting very excited when U2 came on- U2 was pretty much the soundtrack of the whole trip.
- Howth is a charming little seaside town close to Dublin, only around 30 minutes away by train. A nice getaway when you're becoming too much of a regular in your favourite Dublin boozers.
- Guinness is quite delicious. Enough said.
You see? It wasn't all about the drinking and partying...we learned things too! Mostly about drinking, but still. I'm glad we got to see the Paddy's Day madness, but I'm quite keen to see a quieter side of Dublin too...although something tells me that may not exist.
Next adventure for us- Amsterdam!
