REVIEW: THE PROMISE OF HAPPINESS- Justin Cartwright

 I don't usually have strong feelings towards furniture, but I love my bookcase. I plan on buying a HUGE one when I finally settle down in a place! It lets me buy cheap novels on a whim, and save them for a rainy day. I actually acquired The Promise of Happiness when I did work experience at Bloomsbury Publishing 3 years ago, and I've only just gotten around to reading it!

One of those glorious books that is character rather than plot-led, TPOH revolves around the Judd family in the weeks leading up to the return of Juliet Judd, the eldest child, after her two year stint in an American prison. Cartwright delves into the individual lives of each of the five family members- Daphne (the mother), Charles (the father), Charlie (the son), Sophie (the youngest daughter) and Juliet- as all of them use Juliet's return to England as an excuse to re-evaluate and change their lives. The discrepancies between how the characters view themselves, and how they are viewed by their family, makes for some very funny moments; Cartwright's dry writing style lends itself to this humorous side. Daphne and Charles' relationship is a particular highlight, with both of them as dark a horse as the other. By plunging us straight into their daily lives and revealing their past little-by-little, the author ensures that we never get bored by the Judds, surprising us with revelations right until the end. The reader is as confused as the rest of the Judds as to why Juliet, a former Oxford graduate flourishing in the New York art critic scene, would commit a crime; the reasons are far more complex than the reader can imagine- which of course make for fantastic reading.

For me, this book ticks three important boxes: witty writing, intriguing secrets and believable characters. All of us have met somebody like one of the Judds- and also been in a position where we re-evaluate the role we play in our own families. Through this simple tale of a dysfunctional family coming together like 'leaves caught in a vortex of wind', Cartwright explores the bigger question of 'happiness'- namely, how much can be created, and how much has to come from within. Are the Judds satisfied by the end of the novel? I'm not even sure Cartwright knows the answer to that question- which makes the novel all the more life-like and endearing. After all, the 'promise of happiness' is something which we all seek- a lifelong search we can all relate to.

Bula, Fiji!

So…where to begin? I’m still finding it a little hard to believe that we’re actually here in Fiji…it doesn’t seem real yet. That might have something to do with the humidity though; at the moment we’re both walking around in a constant heat-induced daze! Here I go, being typically English- complaining when it’s too cold, too hot, anything but ‘just right’. This tropical climate, with its thick, sticky air, is going to take getting used to…good job I’ve found Suva’s Olympic Pool! Literally the biggest swimming pool I’ve ever been in- 50m by 50m. To put it into perspective, I had 5 lanes to myself, and the other side of the pool had 30 kids in it. But I’m getting WAY ahead of myself- let’s go back to the beginning…

First impressions of a place always start from the plane…green mountainous terrain fringed with white beaches and turquoise waters lingered below as we descended into Nadi. As I walked into the airport, I thought the tropical air was getting to my head already; I was sure that I could hear three men singing. But sure enough, there were three big Fijian men, all in flowery shirts, strumming guitars and singing with huge, contagious smiles on their faces. Fantastic entry into the country! It’s a shame I was zombified for the four hour drive from Nadi airport to Suva; most of it was right by the ocean, giving a great tour of Fiji’s south coast. 

Arriving into Suva, the island’s capital and our home for the next little while, was a little shock to the system after all the roadside greenery. It’s small by many cities’ standards, but the streets were still heaving on Saturday. We soon discovered why this was; it was the final day of the Hibiscus Festival, Suva’s biggest festival of the year. Floats each carrying a pretty contender for the ‘Miss Hibiscus’ competition rolled down the main street, dozens of people lining the streets to see them pass. 

One thing that struck me about Fiji was that EVERYTHING is in English- all the signs, shop names, food packets. I knew that Fiji had been a former British colony- they still have the Queen on their dollar notes, though they have been independent for 31 years- but I thought I’d see some Fijian dotted around. Apart from the many friendly ‘Bula’ (hello) greetings you get every day, I’m not even sure I’ve heard much Fijian spoken in the streets; I think it’s mostly been Hindi, and quite a bit of English. Suva’s multicultural population, mostly of Indian or Fijian descent, makes for a wonderfully diversity in the clothing. Saris, sulus (knee-length skirts for men- more common than you’d think), and of course, floaty flowery dresses and shirts. I can guarantee that Patrick and I will be wearing flowery numbers before the month is up; Patrick doesn’t think so, but watch this space- the tropical ambience will get to him!

Not many exciting photos yet I'm afraid- but here's a few I've taken when walking around the city...

No rest for the wicked; we had a mission over the weekend- Operation Find-A-Flat. We made three new taxi driver friends along the way, all of who seemed appalled at the rent-prices for each flat. Whatever price we’d been quoted, however cheap it seemed to us, they’d always say ‘OWWWW! Too much! I’ll show you a much cheaper place! They take you for fools!’ All half-mad (with accompanying crazy laughs) but really helpful and friendly; after discovering I was British, one driver told me that he thought Harry was a ‘very cheeky boy’! That he is, Mr. Taxi Driver! 

Anyway, after about ten viewings over the weekend all over Suva, we’ve managed to find a lovely flat $700FJD-a-month place, two bedrooms, furnished, with some great landlords. After reading up on Suva, I was slightly concerned with possible property theft; it is rife here, apparently…but we were soon put at ease when our landlord flashed us his detective badge! We’ll certainly know who to go to at a time of crisis! When we opened our new freezer, we even found that they’d given us some housewarming gifts…a fish and a whole chicken…yes, with feet still attached (but no head, thank God!) ‘You like chicken? You know how to chop it?’ asked our landlady. Looks like that was useful training in the Indian desert, Patrick (see this link if you don’t know what I’m on about! Patrick's Chicken Experience in the Desert)

 So we’ve spent our first night in our new flat, and soon found out that alarm clocks will not be necessary. Starting from 1.30am, the roosters were crowing every half an hour. As George (Patrick’s boss) said, they’d better be careful not to be too annoying, or they’ll be joining their friend in our freezer! Perhaps a little brutal…though our landlady did say that our chicken had been wandering around the front yard a few days before, so not far from the truth…

Speaking of food, I visited the food market today- probably the best market I’ve ever been to. And that’s saying something; as you’ve probably gathered from past blog posts, Patrick and I are big fans of food markets! Today I got 5 papayas, a bunch of bananas, some apples, some oranges, some pineapples and a bag of chillis…all for $10 FJD ($5 CAD, 3 GBP)!  It had a serenity not usually found in fruit markets; I’m sure it’s a different story on a Saturday! I couldn’t believe the sheer VOLUME of fruit on offer…I saw stacks of coconuts and pineapples that towered over their sellers’ heads! Unfortunately I didn’t get any pictures- I’ll be sure to take my camera next time.

So! That’s our first five days (well, Patrick’s first ten) days in Fiji.  We haven’t figured out the local delicacies yet, apart from a yellowfin fish dish called ‘Mahi Mahi’ that I had at the Bad Dog Café. Now that we’ve found a place to live, we’re hoping to explore the island on the weekends; one thing that we’ve learned about Suva is that it rains a fair bit. I actually enjoy the rain- it creates lush surroundings, and is a relief from the sticky atmosphere- but it will be nice to see those golden-white beaches on the island’s western side that all my friends have raved about. I don’t think it’s quite sunk in yet that this is going to be our home for the next few months…but the friendliness of Fijians, the beauty of Fiji and the Irish pub down the road will help us to feel at home in no time.Speak soon! xxx

A Cheeky Post From Seoul Airport...

Just to keep the pattern of writing from the airport at the beginning of a long trip, I've decided to write on here in my Fiji stopover- although sadly am not as tipsy as I was in Rome airport. Am in lovely, modern Seoul airport right now, enjoying the luxury of free internet (at least I hope it's free...just approached a computer and presumed it was alright to use it! Will probably cost me millions of won...) Just want to have a little love-in for Korean Air...I'd highly recommend them- very comfortable, good food (well, for plane food anyway...), in-flight entertainment that is easy to use (unlike some airlines *cough* Royal Brunei *cough*), and most importantly, blooming cheap for what you get! Anyway, only another 24 hours or so until I step foot in Suva...crazy! Although I have no right to complain after the journeys that Patrick has been through recently...makes all other journeys seem miniscule! Another 11 hour plane, then an air conditioned bus from Nadi to Suva for 4 hours...fingers crossed it's OK.

As much as I've read about Suva and Fiji in the last few days, I still can't grasp what it will be like. It sounds like it can be the most chaotic and peaceful place at the same time...I just can't imagine it. Ah well, I always did like a challenge...and I'm pretty sure Patrick does too! Not long until I get to find out what it's all about...

Un Mariage, Deux Plaques D'escargots Et Beaucoup De Fromage...

...three things that have made our recent trip to France great! J'aime la France!
   It only seems like yesterday that I was excitedly waiting for Patrick to arrive at Heathrow after his epic 40 hour journey...now, as I write, he is up in the air, finally on the way to Fiji! When he reaches Fiji, he will have literally flown around the world within the space of 2 weeks...Melbourne-Auckland-Beijing-Munich-London-Vancouver-Honalulu-Fiji!
   I actually feel a little guilty...poor Patrick used up his summer vacation time to come all the way to London for my cousin's wedding, and I reckon he's leaving more exhausted than when he came here! Maybe we trawled one pub too many! The day after I last blogged, we were flying to Lyon, ready for a loooong overdue family reunion.
   We were picked up by the airport by my uncle Bill, my mum's brother, who then drove us to their home- a country barn now converted into a bed and breakfast ('La Ferme De Pierrot' website- bit of shameless family promotion!) It was a lovely scenic drive, passing quaint French villages, fields every shade of green and hilltop castles as we drove up the windy roads towards the barn. Unfortunately, my monstrous hangover prevented me from appreciating the view on the way down!
   Weddings are an amazing chance to meet up with family that you just don't get a chance to see usually. It had been ten years since I'd seen my cousins Mark and Tom, and their wives Christina and Esin...and five years since I've seen my cousins Sophie, the bride, and Jeremy. Also the first time I got to meet Martin, Sophie's now husband, and Louis, Mark and Christina's adorable two-year-old son! So the first few hours was all about hugs, kisses, introductions, reunions, and tours of the barn's beautiful grounds. Patrick's eyes lit up when he caught sight of the foozball and ping-pong tables...a few games later, he'd gotten himself a reputation of being a ping-pong master, along with a few wannabe challengers!
   As usual, I'm off on a tangent...the wedding! Seeing everybody rushing around the house with last minute wedding duties, Patrick and I felt we should do our bit, so decided to help out with decorating Sophie and Martin's transport from the church...a tractor! Fantastic idea! With the help of Denise, a family friend, and Brian, Martin's dad, we transformed the tractor from plough to wow (sorry- a little corny I know) with wheat sheafs, berry branches and bunting. Sounds crazy, but just see the results in the photos below...am now considering a tractor for my own wedding in the future!!
   The wedding itself in the nearby village of St Pal was just stunning. This was the first wedding I've ever been to...and I was lucky enough to attend two in one day! As France is a secular state, a 'civil ceremony' is needed as well as a church service in order to make a wedding official. I loved the bilingual nature of the weddings; both services were completely in French, but the translations by my various family members really made them personal. Seeing Sophie off on the tractor was of course a lot of fun; a crowd of nearby whistle-blowing 18 year olds, wearing tinsel wigs, seemed to agree! They were also cheering us on the way to the church- Patrick was lucky enough to get a 'sexy booooooy!' comment from one young French lady!
   The reception back in the barn...well, what can I say? You know that you're partying hard when the floor starts to bounce! The pre-dinner canapes, the speeches, the five course meal, the ever-flowing wine, the MC Hammer dance routine, Brian's ukulele tribute, Martin's rapping around 5am, the imaginary skipping rope on the dancefloor...I loved it all! My auntie Bernadette and uncle Bill sure know how to throw a good party...thanks so much for hosting us in your barn. And thanks Sophie and Martin for inviting us to your amazing wedding- all the best for your future together!

Decorating the tractor.

Backside of the barn.

Exploring the nearby countryside...

Uncle Bill and Mum.

Playing a little bit of frisbee....

Mark and Louis, Tom, Esin and Christina

Mum, Tom, Christina and Louis, and Mark

Just after the civil ceremony.

Mark giving his reading.

Jeremy giving his reading.

Heading off on the tractor...feel strangely proud of our little contribution!!

The beginning of the end- pre-dinner drinks...

Who's gonna catch it?....

...getting ready to run...(nope, didn't catch it!)

At the sit-down dinner...

Feel that floor bouncing!

The happy newly-weds.

An alternative wedding cake!

Martin rapping...watch out Eminem...

   We'd decided before that while we were in France, we might as well head over to the capital...it would be rude not to! So, feeling more than a little worse for wear, we caught the train from St Etienne to Paris, having booked two nights in Hotel Doisy Etoile. If you're looking for a hotel in Paris, would hightly recommend- 5 min walk from the Eiffel Tower, and a bed as comfortable as your own!

   Paris, Paris, Paris...what a gorgeous city. Chic and chilled out- although the latter may be due to the absence of many Parisians for their summer holidays. I can't believe I've never been before now...2 hours on the Eurostar from London! It takes me longer to get to England's South West than Paris...insane. We were very lucky with the weather; sitting down outside the Eiffel Tower for 5 mins was enough to get us burnt! When we were first walking towards that little known Parisian icon, we saw what looked like a telephone mast in the distance, and thought 'that can't be it, can it?' Turns out it was. That's not to deride it at all...when you get a little closer, especially with a piercing blue sky in the background, it is something pretty special. The queue was unfortunately a little too long for us to climb it...next time...or the time after that...yes, this is a city that I'll hopefully pop over to many times in my life.

   Don't get me wrong, the Tate Modern is probably still my favourite art gallery, but the Louvre is something else. I read somewhere that it would take somebody 9 months to see every single piece of art in this magnificent building; I can definitely believe that. As my little two-year-old cousin would say, it's MASSIVE! The modern glass 3D triangle entrance in front of the older building is a fantastic reflection of what the Louvre is all about- mingling classical with modern art ideals. In three hours, it felt like we covered everything yet we'd probably missed half the building. In one room you'll see crowds swarming around the Mona Lisa (I wonder what Lisa Gherardini would make of it all the fuss if she were alive today...probably not much if the painting reflects her enthusiasm). In another room you'll see Venus of Milo and other Greek statues...and in another you'll see modern art from Africa, Asia and British Columbia, Canada! We were breathless by the end of it- but then, the best art galleries should have that effect in you.

   Food highlights...garlic escargots (and an introduction to special utensils required to eat them!), Patrick's ham and emmental crepe, the vanilla creme brulee on the first night...mmm mmm MMM! It's not only the delicious food that makes France a great country (although that's a definite bonus). The quality I always look for in a city is character- something that makes that city unique, something I just couldn't get anywhere else. Proud of its history yet forward thinking, chic in one corner, shabby in the next, art and music on every street, managing to be cosmopolitan and proudly French simultaneously...not many cities fulfil all of that criteria. J'aime la Paris! In spite of the Parisian's great English skills, I reckon Patrick and I would have enjoyed it even more if either of us could speak more than 'un petit peu francais'!

A little lost outside the Arc De Trompe.

A little known Parisian icon...

...obligatory self-take shot with icon in background....

...underside...

...sitting in front of it....

...standing in front of it... (we were more restained with our photography than at the Taj Mahal...)

The biggest art gallery I've ever seen- the Louvre.

Patrick with the Mona Lisa in the Louvre.

Patrick next to the Venus of Milo...

Notre Dame Cathedral

So...I guess the elusive 'Fiji dream' is finally coming into our grasp...yet somehow it doesn't feel real...and I don't think it will until Patrick touches down in Nadi in a few hours time. I fly on Wednesday (legitimacy of flight permitting after dubious website booking-hmm) and will be with Patrick on Friday morning. Plans after that? Looking for somewhere to live, I suppose! But we'll see...who knows what Fiji will throw at us in the first weeks? Nervous, excited, curious...lots of emotions going on right now! I hope Patrick has enjoyed his time here as much as my family and I have enjoyed having here in Laaandaan. Think they're missing you already...Chris certainly is, he's already asking to pick you up! And so begins a new adventure...I'll see you all in Suva, Fiji!!!