I Heart The UK...

...and I don't care who knows it! I'm fed up of countless British people hating their own country. I know many people love it, but I seemed to always meet the haters whilst traveling. I love the UK, and I love the rare, fleeting patriotic spirit brought about by the royal wedding. If I was more cynical, I'd suggest people are feeling happier towards the country because of the day off, and not the royals...but hey, whatever the reason, it's still injected some much-needed love into people's hearts. To celebrate, I've adapted sonnets by two of Britain's greatest ever poets, Elizabeth Browning (original poem here) and the great Bard himself (original poem here), to highlight some of the UK's best assets...as well as adding a cheeky one of my own at the end. Enjoy!

ENGLAND...

How do I love thee? Let me count the pies,

Chicken, lamb & mint, and steak & ale,

Add chips and gravy, you cannot fail,

An accompanying beer is always wise.
Devonshire pasty, oh how I love thee,
Also seaside-bought greasy fish 'n' chips,

I know each bite adds an inch to my hips

Yet I still add salt and vinegar with glee.

There's one dish, England, I almost forgot,

Thy lovely roast dinners on a Sunday,

With stuffing, sprouts, roast potatoes, the lot,

I love thee more than this poem can say.
No-one should say English food's bad- it's not!
I'll always love thy pub grub anyway.

Shall I speak of you on a summer's day?

Thou art more lovely and more temperate,

The British are so used to drizzly grey
That they strip off at an alarming rate!
'It's lovely out there!' 'Oh, isn't it nice!'
'I read today that its hotter than Spain!'
'The driest in years, we'll all pay the price!'

'Don't worry dear, it won't last, it will rain.'

Suspicion is raised as soon as the sun

Dares to shine more than 24 hours,

'Quick! To the beach! Let's drink Pimm's! Let's have fun!',

Tomorrow's forecast shows heavy showers.'
Some might moan about Britain's weather,

But rare sunny days bring us together.

**********

Us Brits always moan

about what we lack,

looking overseas,

always looking back.

What we REALLY lack

is some British pride-

all we need to do

is just look outside.

For such a small island,

lots of stunning coast,

lush green countryside,

and history to boast.

If they seek beauty

in their diverse land,

then British people

may just understand

that the UK is

a great place to be.

I hope in their hearts,

Brits agree with me.

Picture Sources:

I Heart UK: 1872 Clothing

Devon Picture: my very own!

The Power Of Words...

...and the power of remembering the forgotten people: two powers I believe in with all my heart, and effortlessly portrayed by this PurpleContent advert...

A Children's Poem I Wrote...

...called 'Chumphon The Smellyphant'...inspired by a real-life nickname that I had in primary school, 'Smellyfer', haha (I can laugh about it now!). Not sure I smelled quite as bad as Chumphon though- or maybe I did!

This poem is desperately missing illustrations; if anybody fancies doing some, please email me at jenmarysmith@yahoo.com.au, and any feedback is always appreciated. Enjoy!

CHUMPHON THE SMELLYPHANT

Chumphon the elephant lived in Chiang Mai

And had a cruel nickname that made her cry,

Other elephants thought she smelled so bad

They called her ‘Smellyphant’ and made her sad.

Her mum and dad loved her no matter what,

And did not realise she stank like rot.

What’s the smell like? Oh, where do I begin?

A cross between a toilet and a bin!

Other elephant mums had a small word

With Chumphon’s mum, saying ‘This is absurd!’

‘The way that your child smells is just wrong,

I think that she should be renamed Chum-PONG!’

Her parents just replied: ‘Chumphon smells great!

Why must you attack our child with hate?

Don’t listen, Chumphon, they’re jealous of you,

When you look so lovely, what can you do?’

But with no sisters, nor any brothers,

Chumphon sometimes wished to play with others.

One day, she was drinking from a river

When she heard a word that made her quiver…

‘SMELLYPHANT!’ laughed elephants, all her age,

Which filled young Chumphon with a new found RAGE!

She could take it one time, two, three, or four,

But this was the last: she could take it no more.

Look how she’s sweating through her toenail,

Flapping her ears, and swinging her tail,

Mad Chumphon quivered and shivered and shook,

Created ripples in the nearby brook,

All the forest began to shake as well,

Spreading wafts of Chumphon’s disgusting smell.

Those nasty young elephants heard a growl,

Thought it was Chumphon and began to howl

‘Don’t hurt us, Chumphon! We’re sorry, we are!

You’re great! You don’t smell! You’re a real star!’

Baffled Chumphon replied ‘But that’s not me-

What’s that orange-black flash behind that tree?’

All the elephants froze, fearing the worst-

A growl, then a ROAR, then a SUDDEN BURST

From behind that big tree, and there he stood:

Terrence the tiger, and he wanted FOOD!

Petrified, the elephants did not run,

Terrence thought all of this was such great fun,

Closer he edged, the elephants turned stiff,

Terrence licked his lips and took a big SNIFF-

In wafted Chumphon’s unsavoury smell,

Suddenly Terrence didn’t feel so well.

Unable to bear it, and feeling sick,

Terrence scarpered out of there pretty quick.

The elephants couldn’t believe he’d gone,

All thought he’d been scared by angry Chumphon!

They all realised Chumphon was brave and strong,

And that their nasty nicknames had been wrong.

There’d been no reason to make her so sad,

After all, Chumphon didn’t smell that bad.

But now that her friends were being so nice,

Chumphon decided to take their advice,

Making sure her mum scrubbed her EXTRA clean,

The cleanest elephant you’ve ever seen!

After that day, Terrence never returned,

From this tale, there are two lessons learned-

Don’t judge others until you know them well-

And tigers do not like a nasty smell!

Untruthful Biographies...

...deception, or just tweaking the truth? I recently read James Frey's A Million Little Pieces (AMLP), essentially a novel heavily based on former drug-addict Frey's six week stint in rehab. The problem was, the book was initially sold as an 'autobiography'- a term that promises the whole truth and nothing but the truth. As soon as Oprah recommended it on her show, it became a huge sensation worldwide. Frey was labelled the 'voice of a generation' (Chicago Sun Times) and the 'final word on the [drug abuse] topic' (San Francisco Chronicle). And then- shock horror- it came out that parts of the book were fiction. Of course, there was an massive backlash against the book, and I can understand why.

Oprah confronts James Frey

James Frey

   Why did readers feel so strongly against a book they previously enjoyed, whether it was true or not? Surely a simple discovery of mistruth could not take away what they personally got from the book? As with most emotional connections, the main issue is the breach of trust. Readers got to know Frey, laughed and cried with him, were appalled that one person actually withstood so much horror in the real world, the world that the readers live in- only to find out that they didn't truly know him at all. Those characters that the readers fell in love with- maybe even researched further to discover their true life stories- some probably never existed. That exclusive, 'truthful' insight into rehab was inaccurate all along.  Frey's fans had felt that this book was special, but anybody could accentuate part of their life, claim it's a 'revolutionary' autobiography, and sell millions. They felt dumbfounded, deceived, and most of all, disappointed.
   My friend recently told me that one of the recommended books in my blog post Top Ten Books From Our Travels, Three Cups of Tea, is shrouded in doubt over its authenticity (see this article for more: NY Times 'Three Cups of Tea' Article). Does this change the way I feel about the book? If I'm honest, yes, a little bit. One of the book's doubted truths is the exact moment that Mortenson discovered Korphe, the village that helped him and inspired the building of many Pakistani/Afghanistani schools: a fundamental turning point in Mortenson's story. Little embellishments to enhance the story are allowed; lies about the schools the Central Asia Institute (Mortenson's charity) have built, and being captured by the Taliban, are not. David Oliver Relin, the biographer, had a duty to portray Mortenson's experiences as interestingly- but as truthfully- as possible. Many readers not only invested time in the biography, but also money into the charity; if the book is therefore partially untrue, this is an even deeper kind of deception.

Greg Mortenson: the founder of the Central Asia Institute.

   After Gregory David Roberts' Shantaram, which honestly declares itself as based heavily on fact but also fictional, it is difficult to sympathise with deliberate embellishments in order to sell a book. I really don't think Roberts suffered for not calling his book an 'autobiography'; in fact, it made me curious to discover more about the author himself. I do not doubt the factual element of the novel; his initial honesty makes me more willing to believe him, and he makes observations about Mumbai that only a local would know. Shantaram stood out from the crowd through its uniqueness, not its total authenticity; Roberts himself recognises the distinct appeal of combining the genres of fact and fiction in this shantaram.com interview (extract below):

Gregory David Roberts

Q. 6) When did the idea of an autobiography, with the city both as a character and as a backdrop, first strike you?
A. 6). With respect, Shantaram is not an autobiography, it’s a novel. If the book reads like an autobiography, I take that as a very high compliment, because I structured the created narrative to read like fiction but feel like fact. I wanted the novel to have the page-turning drive of a work of fiction but to be informed by such a powerful stream of real experience that it had the authentic feel of fact.

   


    Would James Frey and Greg Mortenson (if the latter did indeed lie; I don't want to get sued by his publishers!) have been as popular if they had also presented their work as 'faction'- part fact, part fiction? We'll never know. How much damage did such accusations make to their books in the long term? All publicity is good publicity; admittedly, I might not have heard of A Million Little Pieces were it not for the controversy surrounding it. Knowing the original fuss did not put me off reading it in the slightest. Just because elements of the narrated rehab experience may not have been true, does this stop the book being an inspiration to drug users trapped by their habit? After all, Frey really was a drug user, and did actually go to rehab- even if he exaggerated his experience a tad. As a lover of language, I may be biased, but for me the highlight of AMLP was Frey's powerful, shocking first-person narrative, the immediacy of which sent shivers down my spine. After reading his website (which, obviously, is also biased), many of his readers feel the same way. Granted, he should not have lied, and for that reason he cannot completely be forgiven, but I would still read another of his books to experience his linguistic brilliance. I'll say it loud and proud: I loved AMLP, and would recommend it to anybody.
   Does such an admission make me a hypocrit? I read AMLP knowing that it was partially untrue, whereas I read Three Cups Of Tea as an biography. In this sense, my opinion regarding the two books is skewed; I already knew AMLP was partially fictionalised, whereas I was one of the 'mugs' who believed- and still wants to believe- that Three Cups of Tea was all truth.  As great as the writing is in its own right, I still desperately want it to be true. Are these alleged doubts borne from people wanting to make a quick buck- or is there truly no smoke without fire? I sincerely hope the former; this article, released a few hours ago, gives me hope: Daily Mail article: Mortenson denies claims. I'll certainly be following this story closely.
   Either way, I think that all writers everywhere- myself included- should learn something from the three books mentioned here. Let your stories carry their own distinctive merit; don't try to claim that they're something else. The truth will out. It is so important to always be HONEST in your writing, both in genre and content; you owe it to your loyal readers, and to yourself.

Picture Sources:
Daily Mail
Google.co.uk
NY Times

REVIEW: THE ACCIDENTAL- Ali Smith

Though it has been sitting on my shelf for about 2 years, I have only just discovered this fantastic novel by Scottish writer Ali Smith, deserved winner of the Whitbread Award 2005. Kooky, clever and charasmatic, Smith's novel takes a kaelidoskopic look at the troubled Smart family on their summer holiday in Norfolk, England.

   In each of the three sections, 'the beginning', 'the middle', 'the end', the author conveys these themes through the thoughts and feelings of each of the family members- 12-year-old Asterid, 17-year-old Magnus, their mother Eve, and their stepfather Michael. They are all satisfied in their own frustrations and anguish until the arrival of Amber on their family holiday, a mysterious lady who turns the family upside down, and becomes a symbol of their longings and desires. Watching Amber slowly tangle herself further into the Smart family web, unravelling each of their crippling obsessions, is mesmerising. You constantly ask yourself, as Eve Smart also does, 'Who is she? Where has she come from?' As with the Smart family, this question comes later than you expect into your mind; her assertive presence in a weakening family seems to serve as justification enough...for a while.

   Smith deserves extra credit for the distinction between each of the novel's 'voices' through radical novel-writing techniques; any novelist that is bold enough to include sonnets halfway through their book is amazing in my eyes! After reading this novel and James Frey's A Million Little Pieces (great book- will talk about it soon), I'm becoming a huge fan of leaving out speech marks. I never thought I'd be such a modernist, but Smith, Frey, you've both changed my mind. The immediacy, the blur between thoughts and spoken words, all conveyed in the absence of a simple grammatical tool...inspiring. You truly feel as though you are accessing the deepest, darkest thoughts of the characters...well, most of them, anyway... The ominous ending to the book shocked me, yet in hindsight was distrubingly inevitable: perfect for a sequel.

   So, an amazing book. Smith's writing sizzles and breaks barriers, her characters jump, almost desperately, off the page. I cannot wait to dive into another book by Smith, and not just because of her brilliant surname (a-ha, a-ha). Discovering new authors makes me even more excited to get a Kindle (that's right, I'm slowly getting converted people...I never thought I'd see the day!). Right now, I'm giving Midnight's Children by Salman Rushdie another shot; I wasn't a fan before and stopped a few chapters in, but I'm hoping that my trip to India may help me to view the book in a different light...

Top Ten Books From Our Travels...

Whilst in Asia, I set myself a goal to read a book by a local author from every country we passed through. I truly believe that, whilst reading plain facts are useful, autobiographies and novels really reach into the heart of a country's consciousness. Tourists can say all they like about a country, but there's nothing more interesting, or important, than listening to what the locals have to say about their past, present and future. I've always been a book-geek, but reading local books, ironically, made the countires we visited more human, more real. We dived into new places with fresh eyes, and saw places we'd already visited in a whole new light. Of course, I always like variety in my reading, so I also took advantage of travel time for a long-overdue read of a few classics. I truly believe that books are essential travel companions; here's the list of our top ten books from our travels...

10) MISS BANGKOK: MEMOIRS OF A THAI PROSTITUTE- Bua Boonmee (Thailand)

Patrick and I had mixed feelings on this book; I quite enjoyed it, Patrick was not a fan. I can see why it may not be such an enjoyable read; Bua is kind, gentle, but frustratingly naive at times. Before you think I'm completely heartless, I still think that this is a valuable account that sheds light on the helplessness of some women in Thai society, and the importance of a Thai family never 'losing face'. Bua made it clear that for most Thai go-go girls in Patpong, Bangkok's seedy suburb, prostitution is not a chosen path, but an inevitability, often leading up from an unstable childhood. All in all, this autobiography is a little sad, but encouraging; speaking up, even if under a pseudonym, is a step in the right direction.

9) CATCHER IN THE RYE- J. D. Salinger

I have been meaning to read this book for a long time, and I finally managed to get my hand on it in a Bangalore bookshop. This book is not so much about the plot- a lonely teenager wandering around New York for a few days after he is expelled from school- as the characterisation of the lead protagonist and narrator, Holden Caulfield. I have read that the late J.D. Salinger put a lot of himself into this novel; given his bright depiction of Holden, that does not surprise me. I'm going to be honest, I'm not sure if I like Holden or not; part of me likes how he sees through falsity, another part wants him to stop trying to be a 'catcher in the rye' by protecting children's innocence, and instead just live his own life. Either way, he's quite the enigma, and you cannot help but be gripped by his unique views and speaking voice all the way through this classic novel, no matter what your final opinion.

8) FALLING LEAVES- Adelaide Yen Mah (China)

A true Cinderella story, Adelaide Yen Mah of Tianjin and Shanghai had a horrible childhood, with her stepmother, Niang, seemingly determined to make her life a living hell. The youngest in the family, poor Adelaide was considered a curse on the family, as her mother died giving birth to her. The true beauty of this book is in Yen Mah's easy writing-style; her experiences have clearly had a profound effect on her, even though now she has happily overcome darker times. It is also fascinating to read about the tragic fall of the once great Shanghai during the Communist takeover, especially the effect it had on the freedom and fortunes of her Aunt Baba, previously the manager of a prolific Shanghai Woman's Bank, and only kind supporter of Adelaide. A lesser known book that deserves greater recognition for its emotionally strong protagonist and depiction of an important era in Chinese history.

7) GHOST TRAIN TO THE EASTERN STAR- Paul Theroux (World)

In my opinion, he doesn't have the self-efficacy and comic genius of Bill Bryson, but Paul Theroux's round-the-world train journey still struck a chord with me, and left me wanting more. He first took this journey at the age of 23, documented in his popular book  The Great Railway Bazaar. As he takes the same journey 40 years on, he finds a very different world- a more developed India, an accesible Cambodia, inaccessible Middle Eastern countries. Theroux's love of train travel over planes is something I can completely relate to; not only do you get to see more of a country, but just being on the train and speaking to fellow passengers can teach you infinitely more about the lives of the local people. Although not as humourous, Theroux is still a charming writer, and I found myself agreeing with his perception of both travel and the countries he visited. I especially enjoyed his meetings with locals that have bad reputations in Western culture- Thai prositutes, Indians in a call centre- turning every pre-conceived judgement on its head. I learned so much about the whole world from just this one book; he managed to whet my appetite even more for travel.

6) A WILD SHEEP CHASE- Haruki Murakami (Japan)

After reading Kafka On The Shore a few years ago, I realised Murakami was a very special writer: infinitely imaginative, linguistically brilliant, and best of all, a little strange. This book also did not dissappoint; it's very difficult to pull off a plot that involves a magic sheep that possesses people, but somehow Murakami pulls it off with his brilliant way with words. Weird, but believable: an example of effortlessly stylish writing. My advice for reading his books? Don't let the confusion put you off: embrace it, and learn to fall in love with it.

5) THE WHITE TIGER- Aravind Adaga (India)

Rightful winner of the 2008 Man Booker Prize, this book offers a little snippet of India. You would never expect to like the protagonist, Balram, given that he is a murderer and all, but Adaga's effortless dialogue means you cannot help but like him- and actually urge him to succeed. A boy from a poor Rajastani village, he is hired as a chaffeur for the son of the village's richest man, and thus thrust into a whole new world in New Delhi. Simultaneously unique and a voice for caste-restricted Indians everywhere, Balram also brings bigger global issues, such as political corrpution and India's role as a superpower within Asia, down to a more human, approachable level. A must-read before you go to India, along with Shantaram: the perfect introductions to a wonderfully crazy country.

4) STEPHEN KING- ON WRITING- Stephen King

Now, if i'm honest, horror is not my favourite genre, in either films or novels. I saw The Shining once, and was scarred for a few weeks. Stephen King, the master horror novelist, therefore seems like an unlikely inspiration. However, this book resonated in a way that no other 'how-to-write' book has ever done before. He makes it very clear from the start that he wants to keep this book short, leaving out unnecessary and confusing nonsense; I loved his fresh approach. Every part of his book, from his funny childhood anecdotes detailing what encouraged him to write, his struggle to write with a full time job and family, his eventual success, and his recent life-threatening car accident, are all inspirational to read; not only for writers starting out, but for anybody who has a dream. He has made me realise that if you want to do it enough, then you've just got to DO IT: simple enough in theory, surprisingly difficult in practise. If there's one resounding message throughout the book, it's this: you cannot let life get in the way of your dream. You perservere, find time no matter what, work hard, and eventually that dream will become your life.

3) FIRST THEY KILLED MY FATHER- Loung Ung (Cambodia)

A beautiful, heart-wrenching account of five-year-old Loung Ung's experience during the horrific Khmer Rouge regime. The title itself sets the devasating tone of the novel; Loung's descriptions of her family members are so loving and vivid, you desperately pray that they somehow make it through. Loung herself is also a head-strong, but very likeable little girl, whose inner strength, despite her young age, is inspirational. The older author writes very convincingly as her younger self, keeping hindsight to a minimum to create a immediacy that keeps you hooked. An essential read, especially before visiting S-21 and the Killing Fields in Phnom Penh. Knowing what each of those photographed prisoners went through beforehand brings greater clarity to just how much they suffered, as well as the farcical nature of this cruel regime.

2) THREE CUPS OF TEA- Greg Mortenson (Pakistan/Afganistan)

If there's one book that would inspire you to a) climb a mountain, and b) change the world, then this is it. Mortenson's biography, as told by David Oliver Relin, is now an essential read for the American Army, and rightly so. The story begins with Mortenson's failed attempt to climb K2, one of the highest mountains in the world. He gets lost in a tiny mountain village called Korphe, who show him great kindness in his hour of need. While he is there, he notices the children's willingness to learn, writing things into rocks, despite having no school. Horrified by this and as an expression his gratitude, Moretenson promises to go back to Korphe once he has raised enough money to build a school. For most people, this would just be words to make the people happy- but not for Greg Mortenson. He struggles and sacrifices his own stability to get the funding, and returned to Korphe with building materials and all- only to find other villages also wanted schools. One kind deed snowballed into  many more, and the Central Asia Institute charity was born. A fascinating read about an extraordinary man, who truly proves that one man with a heart and a dream- and an ability to fight through hard times- can make a difference.

1) SHANTARAM- Gregory David Roberts (India)

Not only my favourite book from my travels, but possibly one of my favourite books of all time. Just the story behind it is enough to give it a chance; Roberts had his drafts confiscated twice in prison before finally finishing his masterpiece. This perserverance in the face of adversity is a common theme throughout this epic novel, as we find Lin (the protagonist) pulling through all sorts of crazy situations. Of course, the first major situation he succeeds in is escaping from a Melbourne prison, and getting into Mumbai on a fake New Zealand passport; a feat that Gregory David Roberts actually managed to achieve in real life. Heavily influenced by his own exiled life in Mumbai, Roberts writes with incredible passion, especially with his character descriptions; his characters are so alive (indeed, some of them may have been real and are still in India). I have never read a book that so encapsulates a city; this book is Mumbai, Mumbai is this book. The slums, the mafia, the spirituality, the locals (I defy you not to fall in love with Prabu, Lin's close Indian friend), the smells, the chai...so vividly portrayed that when we actually visited Mumbai ourselves, it already seemed familiar. Patrick and I were thrilled to go to the bar in Colaba (a Mumbai suburb) that Lin frequents at with gangster and prostitute friends, Leopold's; we felt as though we were walking into our own local bar. A whirlwind journey from the very first page to the very last; this is a book that truly has something to offer everybody, no matter what kind of fiction you usually read. Faction, fiction, whatever you want to call this book...I'll just call it INCREDIBLE.

Weymouth: Reliving Childhood Dreams By The Sea...

Beautiful weather (in England! crazy!), seaside location, old friends that haven't been in the same room for 5 years...this weekend was always going to be something special. It was lovely to be back at a British seaside after so long; I have to say, there's nothing quite like them. Some can be tacky, with seafront houses painted in every pastel shade imaginable, but others, like Weymouth, can be really quite charming.

   It's rare to see a British beach on a sunny day without hoards and hoards of uber-keen half-naked Brits, who leave you with barely enough room to breathe and a need to convince yourself that this cramped and claustrophobic atmosphere is a glorious way to spend a sunny day. I'm very proud to be British, but we tend to go a bit mental in temperatures over twenty degrees celsius. Miraculously, Weymouth never felt too crowded this weekend, and we were able to eat our homemade ice creams in peace, whilst watching kids build sandcastles and bury their siblings in the sand. Ahh, it was almost like we were 10 again...especially when we went on to buy some Kinder Surprise eggs. For those of you who don't know, these amazing creations are hollow eggs that have toys inside that you have to make...I know, too exciting. It really did feel like we were children again...except we were drinking cider as we ate them...and I don't recall incorporating a Kinder Surprise toy into a drinking game when I was 10 (long story)...
   Being the connected gal that she is, Rach was able to get us into the SeaLife Park for free! Not only did we get to see some hilarious pengiuns intensely chasing a light and seahorses camouflaged as seaweed, but we also had an adrenaline rush (of sorts!). The Crocodile Creek water flume may have been sans crocs, but Cath and I enjoyed it so much we went on it twice! We're hardcore...or not. The next day, we were also able to get into Pirate Adventure Mini Golf for free too (it's good having friends in high places!) For those who have never had the pleasure of mini golf, it's basically what it says on the tin: golf with miniature clubs and miniature courses! But trust me, it's a riot, especially with pirate voices shouting out randomly from each course. We weren't that terrible either- mainly because the rules stated a 6 shot limit for each hole, but still...
   This weekend went ridiculously fast...what did we do with our time? Ate brunch, went on a carousel (a ride where you sit on horses and go round and round, usually strictly for five-year-olds), drank cider on the beach, ate fish and chips, drank god knows what (Ring of Fire- always dangerous), partied, met a Disco Fish (a guy on his stag do who'd lost all of his friends), slept, woke, ate the best sausage and egg bap in the world bar none (resulting in me telling the cafe lady that I enjoyed her baps- ahem), thought about pedalo-ing/kayaking, decided it was too cold, made footprints in the sand, paddled in the freezing sea...yep, I can see where the time went.

It took us bloody ages to put up this tent...but it was worth it.

The Disco Fish...a rare species only found in Weymouth...on a Saturday night.

Getting very excited over my bap.

   Rach, thank you so much for inviting us down, and I hope Monkey isn't too offended. He is a little scary though, let's face it. Scary but lovely. (I'd just like to confirm here that Monkey is a toy, not a person). Rach, Cath, Alex, Meg and Bernie...thank you for all the laughs. Let's not leave it so long next time, eh? Meg, I've stolen a few of your pics for here...hope you don't mind! If there's one thing that will stick in my head from this weekend, it's this...b b b bird bird bird, bird is the word...(ARRRRGH!)

My Recommendations Of Amazing People in Asia...

If there's one thing I learned as a traveler, it is the value of good recommendations from your fellow nomads. There is so much competition in the Asian tourist industry these days, that sometimes it can be difficult to spot the true diamonds out there...the honest ones that truly care, and that aren't just out to scam you out of money. Below, I have listed the contact details of all the locals that made our trip so memorable, and that deserve recognition and business. This is my way of saying thank you for all of their kindness, professionalism, fun, humour, and authenticity. Undertake an experience with one of these people, and you won't regret it; I can guarantee that they'll make your own trip unforgettable.

INDIA

Marari Arapakal Beach Villa (Dominic)

Relaxing beach retreat close to Alleppey, Kerala. Shortly after our house-boat experience, poor Patrick became very ill with the flu, and desperately needed some respite from chaotic Indian life. So, we asked our auto-rickshaw driver, Ali, where the nearest beach was...and he took us to this homestay in Marari, 30 seconds from the beach. It was just what Patrick needed. The family were so sweet and hospitable to us, making us breakfast and random curries throughout the day, as well as providing coconuts to drink in our hammocks. I got chatting to a lovely girl called Neethu; if you do go this homestay, get chatting with her- she loves to practise her English! Dominic is her uncle, and manager of the place. Click on the link below for my blog entry at the time:

Marari

Contact Details

Mararikulam North P.O.
Alappuzha District
Kerala
India
Tel: +91 9947 440 334
Email: mararipakalbeach@yahoo.co.in

Shasi

Amazing Indian cooking lessons in the comfort of her own home in Udaipur, North India. Worth going just to hear her incredible story of survival and strength, let alone for the amazing feast she teaches you to create...then eat! Click on the link to see what I wrote about the experience at the time:

Shasi's Indian Cooking Lessons

Contact Details

Address: Gangaur Chat 18, below Sunrise Restaurant, Udaipur
More info: http://shashicookingclasses.blogspot.com/
Tel: +91 294 9929303511
Email: shashicooking@gmail.com

Isra

One of the camel drivers from our 4 day camel trek, though he can take you on treks through the desert for anything from 1 day to 28 days. I can guarantee he'll provide you with a truly authentic desert experience. Click on the link below to see my blogpost shortly after the trek:

4 Day Camel Trek, Jaisalmer

Contact Details

Isra: +919982848216

NEPAL

Surya Gumire and Sau Parajuli

Patrick and I went on a 11 day trek with these guys to the Thorong-La Pass, 5416m high. One of the best things I've ever done, and Surya and Sau are two of the best people I've ever met. Our good friend Kate Gustafson, who recommended Surya to us, can also vouch for this. You can find out more about her Everest Base Camp trekking experience with Surya in 2009 on her awesome blog A True World. Professional, supportive, fun, generous, instinctive, experienced...what more could you want from trekking guides? Surya and Sau have just started their own company too; they hope to be in Kathmandu's top 10 trekking companies within the next few years. Their ambition is truly inspirational; I hope from the bottom of my heart that they achieve this. Click here for my blog posts shortly after the trek:

Nepal- Annapurna Trek Days 1-8

Nepal- Annapurna Trek Days 9-11

Contact Details:

Himalayan Enchanter Treks & Expedition Pvt. Ltd.
Thamel, Kathmandu
Nepal
P O Box: 14401

Tel: +977 1 4249881     Fax: +977 1 4249479
E-mail: info@himalayanenchanter.com
           himalayanenchanter@gmail.com

Facebook page: http://en-gb.facebook.com/pages/Himalayan-Enchanter-Treks-Expedition-Pvt-Ltd/181636768534860

LAOS

Mr Bounsom

Kind restaurant owner that we randomly befriended after he arranged a dolphin-sighting boat ride for us along the Mekong River. When we came back, Patrick and I got chatting about fishing- and just like that, Mr Bounsom offered to take us later on that afternoon! What ensued was a very fun boat ride close to dusk, and barbecuing the fish afterwards! His family were very kind to us as well, providing lights from their motorbikes for our bike ride back home in the dark! Click below for my account shortly after:

Dolphin-Spotting and Fishing With Mr Bounsom

Contact Details

If you're on Don Det, hire a bike, ride over the bridge to Don Khon, and head to Long Beach. There are only two restaurants; Mr Bounsom's is on the right, and has his name on.

 THAILAND

Patara Elephant Farm

OK, so this is really a recommendation from Lonely Planet, but I just felt this place needed to be on my list of top recommendations. Patrick and I had such an incredible time being elephant-owners for the day...feeding them, washing them, riding with them, swimming with them...just magical. Pat, the owner, clearly loves the elephants that he brings into his farm; his main goal is to encourage breeding to prevent the extinction of the Chiang Mai elephant, before letting them back into the wild. He really knows and cares for the elephants; it's obvious that they're very happy. Not only do Patara Elephant Farm give you an amazing elephant experience, they also give you a free DVD full of high quality photos and videos from the day. I'm not going to lie, it's a little more expensive than other elephant sancutary places- but trust me, it's SO worth it! Click on the links below to see my blog entry about the day, and the professional photos...

Making Friends With Elephants: The Blog Entry

Photos Taken On The Day

Contact Details

Tel: +66-819922551    
Website: http://www.pataraelephantfarm.com/

CAMBODIA 

Ang

Fun tuk-tuk driver that took us around the Temples of Angkor, whilst pumping out Black Eyed Peas from a boombox. As well as inviting us to his house to meet his family, he also took us clubbing on the last night with his Cambodian friends- quite the experience! Click on the links for my accounts at the time:

Our Temples of Angkor Experience

Dinner, Drinking And Clubbing With Ang!

Contact Details

Ang: +855 92 63 29 30

Castaways Beach Bar

Perfect chill-out spot on Otres Beach, Sihanoukville: the type of beach we'd searched for in Thailand, and failed to find. Beautiful clear waters, huts along the white sandy beaches, ladies selling delicious lobster for low prices. We thought we'd found paradise, then we walked further up the beach, and found this place. Truly idyllic. The huts got increasingly sparse the further we walked up the beach; Castaways was one of the last huts along the stretch before untouched beach took over. Not only did we secure a beachfront hut for $7 (they also have more enclosed ones for $15), but we also got chatting to the unassuming, intelligent manager about his life in politics, and during the Khmer Rouge regime. Click on the link below for more on Otres Beach, and pictures of Castaways:

Otres Beach

Castaways

Contact Details

Tel: +855 12 99 84 92
      +855 16 48 76 95
      +855 97 58 69 06
Email: seyka_ouk@rocketmail.com

VIETNAM

Denis and Chan

Motorcycle drivers that took us from Dalat to Hanoi in 12 days, showing us stunning scenery- and lots of fun!- on the way. Can't stress enough how great these guys are...safe drivers, perfect English, fun-loving, knowledgable about the Ho Chi Minh trail, up for any kind of adventure...in fact, Denis thrives on adventure! However long the trip, however short, these guys will be thrilled to take you. Click on the links below for our MANY photos from our trip...

Motorcycle Trip: From Dalat to Hanoi- Days 1-4

Motorcycle Trip: From Dalat to Hanoi- Days 4-12

Contact Details

Denis:

Tel: +84 918 785 734
Email: deniseasyrider@live.com

Chan:

Tel: +84 907 069 689
      +84 168 963 584
Email: phan.kechang@gmail.com